Caribbean Cruise Diary (4)

Date: 2018-05-12

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Day 7: Puerto Rico, San Juan — US Territory

Arrival 1pm / Departure 11pm

Morning on Board

Up at 7am. After a shower, we tried the Main Dining Room for breakfast — an elegant Art Deco space in red and black, evoking the golden age of ocean travel. The breakfast menu spans multiple cuisines: a Japanese option with rice, miso soup and grilled fish was available alongside eggs Benedict (in several variations — bacon, crab, vegetarian), buckwheat pancakes and much more. I chose the vegetarian eggs Benedict and buckwheat pancakes.

The morning offered two activities in parallel: a lecture and a cooking class. The cooking class took place in a fully equipped kitchen studio where a chef from American Test Kitchen demonstrated two dishes: potato gnocchi in a creamy gorgonzola sauce, and creamy parmesan polenta. Both looked exceptional. I made gnocchi years ago — worth revisiting when we're back in London.

At 11am we headed up to the pool deck. Around 27°C — another hot day. The poolside was busy and lively.

Afternoon: San Juan Panorama Tour

At 1pm we disembarked through the gangway, tapping our cruise cards as we went. At the terminal, tour groups assembled. Outside: 34°C, brilliant sunshine, yesterday's sunburn making itself felt.

Our tour was the "San Juan Panorama Tour" — a 25-seat minibus with a guide/driver named Luca, a cheerful and energetic local. The Caribbean spirit lives up to its reputation — everyone here seems genuinely happy and full of energy. The official languages are English and Spanish (a legacy of Spanish colonial rule).

First stop: a government building in the new city, constructed entirely in marble — impressively heavy and imposing. Statues of every American president who visited Puerto Rico line one side; Barack Obama stood last in the row at the time of our visit. The next addition was obvious to speculate about.

We then drove through the hotel district and past a beach that had seen a small tsunami two weeks earlier. The previous autumn, a major Caribbean hurricane had felled many large trees — several parks still showed the damage.

The bus then entered Old San Juan — a UNESCO World Heritage site. Columbus landed here; the area remained Spanish territory for centuries, and the streets retain the colour and character of that era: brightly painted Spanish colonial buildings lining cobblestone lanes. Charming and atmospheric.

The two-hour tour returned to the cruise terminal. In an unfamiliar city with limited time and no easy public transport, a guided tour makes sense — you learn something about the place and can ask questions. The value rises when your time is short.

Back at the terminal, a large pharmacy caught my eye. We'd run out of toothpaste — and I spotted Hershey's almond chocolate (harder to find in London), peanut butter-filled pretzels and mixed nuts. Paid in US dollars. A good find.

Back on board, shower, nap, then reading on deck until dinner. Dinner was quieter than usual — many passengers had opted to eat ashore or watch flamenco in the city, since the ship wouldn't sail until 10:30pm.

The evening show featured Filipino crew members performing songs and dances — earnest, warm and charming. Back in our cabin just before midnight as the ship slowly pulled away. The night skyline of San Juan slipped past as we watched from the balcony.

Tonight's towel art: an elephant. Remarkable.

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Day 8: St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

March 14

The Virgin Islands are split: the western half is US territory, the eastern half British. St. Thomas is US. We woke at 6:30am to find the ship already docked — a mountain right in front of us.

Breakfast in the Main Dining Room: the Japanese set (rice, miso soup, grilled salmon, rolled omelette) alongside French toast and scrambled eggs.

A Disney Cruise ship had arrived and docked directly behind us — Mickey ears visible on the funnel.

Snorkelling Tour

Our snorkelling tour departed at noon on a large sailboat carrying about 70 people. We sailed 20–30 minutes to a small island; the crossing was choppy and a few passengers felt unwell.

The first snorkelling spot was known for sea turtles. The water was turquoise, warm and clear — white sandy floor, tropical fish of all shapes and sizes swimming fearlessly right up to us. The instructor called out: "turtle below!" — and about 10 metres down, a sea turtle glided slowly past. We watched for some time. Sea turtles can live around 80 years; ours was estimated to be about 40 — middle-aged, presumably unbothered by us.

After 40 minutes we moved to the second spot: a shipwreck on the other side of the island, lying about 20 metres down and surrounded by yellow snapper. One of the other passengers noted wistfully that snapper is excellent eating. The wreck's interior had become a home for dozens of fish. Another 30 minutes here before heading back.

On the return, the crew raised the sails — and the difference was astonishing. Coming out had been motorised and rough; sailing back was smooth, swift and quiet. The sea genuinely looks emerald-green here. Photographs suggest it, but seeing it in person is a different experience entirely.

Back on board: shower, late pizza lunch (the main buffet had closed), then bed. We woke just in time for dinner — light meal only. The evening show was a tribute to Lionel Richie, featuring a talented singer who also played piano. An enjoyable end to an exhausting day.

Tonight's towel art: a dog.

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Day 9: Day at Sea

March 15

Early alarm for a 6am sunrise meditation session on the aft deck — the furthest point at the stern. Outside was still dark; stars and a thin crescent moon visible. 30 minutes of seated meditation with music, facing the open sea. When we opened our eyes: the sky had lightened to a dramatic overcast sunrise, cloud and early light combined beautifully.

The day was full of lectures and classes. A nutrition talk on "eating without gaining belly fat" ran for 90 minutes; Dr. Jo's afternoon session went two hours. Between sessions: fruit-only lunch, a long nap, reading.

Evening was Gala Night — formal dinner with a cocktail reception beforehand. The 4-course menu featured foie gras, lobster and beef fillet; service was slow and luxurious, dinner ending just before 10pm.

The Gala Night show: a sharp, high-energy Broadway-style dance and song revue. American professional dancers — genuinely impressive.

Tonight's towel art: a gorilla wearing my glasses.

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