Caribbean Cruise Diary (5)

Date: 2018-05-13

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Day 8: St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

March 14

The Virgin Islands are split in two: the western half is US territory, the eastern half British. St. Thomas, where we're docking today, is on the American side. I woke around 6:30am to find the ship already still — looking outside, we'd already arrived. A mountain rose right in front of us.

Breakfast in the Main Dining Room: the Japanese set — rice, miso soup, grilled salmon, rolled omelette — plus French toast and scrambled eggs.

After breakfast, up on deck, I spotted a Disney Cruise ship pulling in right behind us — Mickey Mouse ears on the funnel and everything.

We had a snorkelling tour booked for noon. The one two days ago at Grand Turk had been cancelled — would today's actually happen? We spent the morning up on deck; not too hot, not too cold, a gentle breeze — perfect conditions. At 11am we went back to the cabin, put swimsuits on under our clothes, and headed out. Today's tour was aboard a large sailboat moored right alongside the ship, with about 70 of us on board, heading for a small island 20–30 minutes across the water. The crossing was choppy enough that a few people started to feel unwell.

We dropped anchor just off the little island. The water close to shore was calm enough for even complete beginners. Today's plan was two snorkelling spots — this first one known for sea turtle sightings. Fins, life vest, goggles and snorkel on, and in we went. The water was warm and wonderfully comfortable, and the colour was genuinely turquoise. Below us: gorgeous white sand and fish of every size and shape, round-bodied and long and slender, swimming past without a hint of fear — some came right up alongside us, close enough to touch, which caught us completely off guard. Our instructor called out, "Turtle coming up below!" — and sure enough, about 10 metres down, a sea turtle was gliding past. Sea turtles apparently live to around 80; ours was said to be about 40, a turtle in its middle age. We watched it swim serenely along for a while, thoroughly satisfied.

After about 40 minutes enjoying the water there, we climbed back onto the sailboat and moved to the second spot, on the far side of the island — a sunken wreck. Yellow snapper swam thick beneath our feet. The man snorkelling next to us watched them and said, only half-joking, "Those are delicious, you know" — and it's true, snapper does turn up frozen and imported even in London, in the bigger Chinese supermarkets. The wreck lay maybe 20 metres down, with so many fish gathered around it that I found myself wondering whether the ship's hollow interior had simply become their home. We stayed there about 30 minutes before tiredness caught up with us and we swam back to the boat. Climbing out of the water, I suddenly felt the full weight of my own body and realised just how exhausted I was — but it was an exhilarating kind of tired, the good feeling that comes from sun and salt water.

As the boat turned back toward port, the crew raised the sails. Under sail, the boat barely rocked at all — it seemed to glide across the water, and moved surprisingly fast. Compared with the rough, motor-powered crossing out, the ride back was remarkably smooth and quick. The crew offered around fruit punch, alcoholic drinks and snacks, but I was feeling increasingly drained, so I stuck to water and just watched the sea go by. I'd seen photos of emerald-green water before, but seeing that colour in person, for real, was something else entirely.

We pulled up alongside the Nieuw Amsterdam again. My whole body felt woozy, and my skin and hair were sticky with salt. Straight to the cabin for a hot shower. Freshened up, we went for a late lunch — the main buffet had already stopped serving, so once again it was the pizza counter for us.

Full and exhausted, we collapsed onto the bed, and by the time we woke up it was almost dinner. We hurried to the dining room for a lighter meal than usual. That night's after-dinner show was a tribute to Lionel Richie's songs, so we went along — the singer had a wonderful voice and played piano beautifully, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. With a 6am meditation session planned for the next morning, we were in bed before midnight. Good night. Tonight's towel art: a dog, maybe?

Day 9: A Day at Sea

March 15

The alarm went off at 5am, but I couldn't quite drag myself out of bed, and it was nearly 6:15 before I finally got up, washed my face, and headed to the aft deck for the morning meditation session. It was still dark outside — stars and a thin crescent moon were visible. We sat in chairs, felt the breeze, listened to music, and settled into a 30-minute meditation. When I opened my eyes again, dawn had broken and a stunning view had opened up in front of us — cloudy, but the clouds were catching the light of sunrise beautifully.

Afterwards, coffee and a sweet pastry in the lounge, followed by just some fruit downstairs in the restaurant. From 9am, a two-hour session with Anita. Then over to the fitness studio for a 90-minute talk on "eating without a bulging stomach." Back to the cabin for a nap until 2pm, then lunch — salad and fruit. It was overcast and chilly outside today, and the pool deck's roof stayed closed. Even so, it's always warm enough here to spend the day in a swimsuit, whatever the weather.

From 3pm, a two-hour session with Dr. Jo. Tonight was Gala Night, with a cocktail party for the seminar group an hour before dinner, so we decided to have a drink first — about 30 minutes at the party, one drink each. The Gala Night dinner was a leisurely four-course affair, finishing just before 10pm. The ingredients were a cut above the usual too: foie gras, lobster, beef fillet.

From there straight to the theatre for the evening's show — dance and song, sharp, tight choreography set to upbeat music. Watching it, I kept thinking, American dancers really are something — this is the country with Broadway, after all. Tonight's towel art: a little gorilla, wearing my glasses! In bed before midnight. Good night.

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