Istanbul Trip: Part 2

Date: 2024-12-02

Sightseeing Day 1: Hop-On Hop-Off Bus and Sultanahmet

Istanbul is vast — the population is noticeably larger than Tokyo's. With only three full sightseeing days, we planned broadly: Day 1 double-decker bus tour and Sultanahmet Square; Day 2 New City walk and Bosphorus cruise; Day 3 Egyptian Bazaar and surroundings. A relaxed itinerary, adapted to mood and energy — with cat-feeding breaks whenever Istanbul's famous street cats demanded attention.

Cats of Istanbul

Street cats are everywhere in Istanbul — healthy, well-fed and entirely at home in the city. We brought a packet of cat treats from home, and the routine was simple: rustle the bag, say "snack time?" and a cat would materialise, meow, and trot over. They'd allow a head-scratch while eating. Pure joy.

The Busforus Hop-On Hop-Off Tour

On the first morning, we joined the Busforus Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour — the classic double-decker sightseeing bus found in major cities worldwide. The departure point is Sultanahmet Square, between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

The tour covers Old Istanbul, New City (Beyoğlu), and the European side, with an audio guide in up to eight languages (on this trip, no Japanese — we listened in English). The bus crosses the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus bridges four times during the circuit, and the views from the bridges are superb.

Practical details (September 2024):

• Tickets: 24-hour or 48-hour options
• 24-hour ticket: 1,500 Turkish lira per person (approx. £45 / ¥6,300)
• Card payment only
• Departures roughly every 30–60 minutes; service runs 10am–5pm
• Bring a jacket — on fine days the roof is open and it can be breezy

We find this kind of bus tour invaluable when visiting a new city. On day one, you don't know the layout or scale — a single circuit gives you the whole picture from the comfort of your seat, lets you spot places to return to, and is accessible for those with mobility difficulties. The wheelchair space on the lower deck is a particularly thoughtful feature.

We had visited the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace on our previous visit with a guide. This time we were happy to admire them from the bus. The Blue Mosque's exterior — the intricate blue-glazed tile decoration, the cascading domes — is breathtaking even from a distance.

Lunch: A 104-Year-Old Köfte Restaurant

For a late lunch, we followed a recommendation: Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, near Sultanahmet Square — in business since 1920, now in its 104th year.

The menu has exactly two items: köfte (ground beef, formed into patties and grilled over charcoal) and lamb sis kebab (chunks of lamb on a skewer, charcoal-grilled). That's it.

We ordered köfte and lamb sis, plus lentil soup, bean salad, ayran and a dessert called kemalpasha (a soft, sweet pastry soaked in syrup). Everything was outstanding. The köfte had a beautiful smoky char; the lamb was tender and flavourful.

Total: 1,342 lira (approx. £40 / ¥5,600) — for an establishment of this quality and age, remarkable value by UK standards, where that would barely cover one person's meal at a modest restaurant.

We returned to the hotel by T1 tram, which runs directly past the restaurant.