Istanbul Trip: Part 3

Date: 2024-12-03

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Sightseeing Day 2: New City and Bosphorus Cruise

Today we crossed to the New City (Beyoğlu) on the M2 (green) metro line, emerging into Taksim Square — a large, bustling plaza with a monument to Turkish independence at its centre. 2024 is Turkey's centenary year; a ceremonial gate bearing the inscription was prominently installed.

Turkish Coffee: A Tale of Two Shops

My husband is a devoted coffee enthusiast, and today's mission was to try proper Turkish coffee at two well-regarded spots in the New City.

First stop: A coffee house on İstiklal Caddesi (est. 1967)

İstiklal Caddesi is Istanbul's most famous shopping street, running from Taksim Square downhill towards the Galata Tower, alongside the tracks of a charming vintage tram. The street is lined on both sides with shops, cafés, restaurants, sweet shops, clothing stores and international brands — and, as in all Islamic countries, perfume boutiques are plentiful.

The first coffee shop was slightly off the main street, down a side alley marked by a sign with a brown bull logo. The alley had tables and chairs spilling outside — on a pleasant 24°C day, almost everyone was sitting outdoors.

Turkish coffee is made in a small copper pot (called a cezve): coffee grounds and water combined, then heated in hot sand — brought to just below the boil, then removed before it overflows. The grounds settle in the bottom of the cup; you leave them, and drink the clear coffee above. Unlike espresso, there's no pressure involved, so the flavour is mellow and rounded — almost mineral, like coffee brewed with spa water.

One cup: 70 lira (approx. ¥300). Distinctive, aromatic, genuinely delicious.

Second stop: Near Galata Tower (tourist price)

The second shop was near the famous Galata Tower — a landmark of the New City skyline. Beautiful location. Coffee here: 195 lira per cup (approx. ¥840) — plus a small chocolate. For the price difference and the overall experience, we would recommend the first shop without hesitation.

The Short Bosphorus Cruise

After coffee and a walk down through the Galata district, we crossed the Galata Bridge towards Old Istanbul and made our way to the pier for the afternoon Bosphorus cruise.

The Şehir Hatları (City Lines) ferry company — which operates Istanbul's everyday commuter ferry services across the city — runs one short Bosphorus cruise per day, departing from the Eminönü pier near the T1 tram terminus at Eminönü.

Details (September 2024):

• Departure: 14:40
• Duration: approximately 1 hour 50 minutes
• Price: 260 lira per person (approx. ¥1,100)
• Ticket window opens at 14:00; a queue forms — easy to find
• Boarding begins 10 minutes before departure
• Seating tip: sit on the left (port) side for the best views heading north
• The boat has a snack bar selling çay — we sipped tea and watched the scenery

The route goes up through the Golden Horn, then out into the Bosphorus proper, passing under both of the great bridges connecting Europe and Asia. The scale of the city, seen from the water, is humbling — grand Ottoman palaces, forested hillsides, and the continuous flow of cargo ships and tankers.

Istanbul is fundamentally a maritime city, and seeing it from the water is the best way to understand its geography. Strongly recommended.

Private tour companies run similar routes with more frequent departures and slightly higher prices; if the state ferry timing doesn't suit, the private boats are a good alternative. The Şehir Hatları vessel is the largest of the options.